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The Real Wine Fair - Part 2

Posted on 6th June 2012 by ewwwebdev There have been 0 comments

Whilst we made some exciting new finds at The Real Wine Fair (see last week's blog), we also caught up with several producers whose wines we have come to know and love over the past few years, as our listing of natural wines has gradually grown. For example it was great to see Magali Tissot and Ludovic Bonnelle at Domaine du Pech going from strength to strength with their new vintage of Le Pech Abuse, whilst fantastic Sicilian producer COS (whose Nero di Lupo has proved popular) impressed this time with a Frappato. Crying out for an ice bucket on a sunny day, this was delicate and full of ripe summer fruits without becoming jammy.

Eric Bordelet & his artisan ciders

It was great also to talk with Eric Bordelet, whose passion for his artisan ciders is as infectious and genuine as his smile. We are admirers of his Poire Granit, which has featured alongside autumnal desserts at several of our food and wine dinners over the years. From ancient trees, Eric oversees the careful selection of around 14 different varieties of pears - the fruit is small with a wild, concentrated flavour.

Back to the wines. As well as the deep, brooding 'KO In Cot we Trust' from Puzelat-Bonhomme of Touraine, which we tried for the first time at Borough Market last year, this time it was the turn of an approachable Sauvignon de Touraine and the KO Rose. The latter, a blend of Gamay, Cabernet Franc and Cot, was all bright cherries and raspberries with good acidity. The mission of this arm of the Puzelat enterprise is to rescue plots of vines that cannot be farmed any longer by their owners, supervising the vineyards and winemaking in the same natural fashion as their own domaine.

Another of our favourite producers is Vasco Croft from Afros, which overlooks the Lima river in Portugal. Vasco describes his wines as

"Challenging in some ways, and also wonderfully surprising."

He is said to have 'tamed Vinhao', a velvet curtain of intoxicating fruit (the flesh of the grapes is darkly coloured, as well as the skins) which Jamie Goode described as follows:

"It's an extreme taste, with high tannins and acidity, but this is offset by the amazing fruit presence, and the youthful character of the wines. They have rough edges, but so do many interesting people. Vinhao should be cherished as something unique, delicious, and thoroughly gastronomic."

You can try the sparkling Vinhao from our catalogue now, and I suspect more from Afros shortly.

The Real Wine Fair was a good opportunity to try the 2010 vintage of Pinot Noir from Central Otago producer Burn Cottage. Farmed biodynamically from the outset, this is only their second vintage, but the estate is already winning great acolades. It's always a worry that the wine won't live up to the hype, but the 2010 impressed us enormously. Great fruit, with lovely earthy, savoury notes (mushrooms, green pepper) carried in a structured palate with marked mineral notes and backed by good acidity.

Read more about Burn Cottage on our blog here.

Finally, we indulged in our favourite palate cleanser - Moscato d'Asti from Vittoria Bera & Figli. Tasting buddy Meeche Hudd of The Scarlet Hotel agreed this would be the perfect partner for summer desserts (Eton Mess, Panna Cotta etc). And with that, it was on to a fabulously long and noisy dinner with the growers, which only pictures can do justice to, as well as some rather sore heads the day after....


This post was posted in Uncategorized, Tastings and other Events, News

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